Kerala – Through my eyes
My constant yearning to explore new places coaxes me to take frequent vacations. And I usually do not like to disappoint myself. I pack my bags and set off to yet another new destination. One such urge landed me in Kerala in quest of an answer to “Why Kerala is called God’s own country”? It was a rather eventful solo journey from Pune – Kochi – Alaphuza – Vagamon
Kochi:
I landed in Ernakulam or Cochin airport at 04:30 AM. For my two-day stay in Kochi, I pre-booked a decent budget hotel, Leisure Inn Kochi, for which I had to pay additional 1000 rupees as I checked in early. December 2019 was not an ideal time to travel anywhere in India due to anti-CAA protests across the country. I witnessed it in several areas in Kerala during this trip. Many places were even closed as a precautionary measure by the government, but I still managed to go for a day trip to Fort Kochi and few nearby areas.
Kochi is also known as the “Gateway to Kerala” located on the southwest coast of India. The first thing that will strike when you enter the narrow lanes of Fort Kochi is the colorful colonial houses and one can easily explore this historic place on foot or bicycle as all touristy attractions are within walking distance. You will see a lot of European influence in Kochi’s culture and architecture. My visit to the Indo-Portuguese Museum cleared the confusion around the connection between the Dutch and Portuguese. In short, the Dutch wanted to build their colonies all around the world. Kochi was their key target due to the presence of Spices. In the coming years, the Portuguese and the Dutch became rivals. They even fought several wars in a bid to expand their territories. The Dutch dismantled many Portuguese built structures, established their own symbols & renamed many streets.
Mattancherry palace was one such place that was later renovated by the Dutch, is now popularly known as the Dutch Palace. I could not get inside the Palace as it was closed for the day. I had to cut short my walking tour as it started raining so heavily that I could hardly see anything. One rickshaw driver came to my rescue and insisted that I must see a few more places even though it’s raining. He said to me in Hindi, “aap fir kab aaoge kya pata, ek hi baar mai dekh lijiye 2-3 jagah “. So, it’s not true that Keralites don’t speak Hindi. At his command, I went to the “Kochi Maritime Museum”!
This is a relatively new museum, established in 2001 to raise awareness about India’s Maritime History. The models and pictures in the museum beautifully portray the evolution of the Indian Navy. Anyone interested in maritime history will be delighted to see the detailed information that is being exhibited here. You will see replicas of naval ships, arms and ammunition, and artifacts on the bravery and sacrifices rendered by the Indian navy. I feel proud and blessed to have such strong-armed forces who stand tall and keeps our country going.
I ended my day tour with a late lunch at the famous “Seagul restaurant”! It was still pouring outside, but I could not have complained around such a beautiful view in front of me. Lost in thought with every drop of rain that I lost track of time; it was already evening.
Alappuzha /Alleppey:
Distance from Kochi to Alappuzha or Aleppey is around 1hr 45 minutes. I decided to go by KSRTCS bus. To my surprise, it was a hassle-free bus ride to Alappuzha. I pre-booked an early morning ticket from Ernakulam to Alappuzha. Courtesy –REDBUS. Usually, bus rides make me sleepy, thanks to the scenic beauty on both sides of the road that kept me awake. It felt like I reached Alappuzha in no time. It’s another 30 minutes ride by a tuk-tuk or a cab to the treehouse that I had booked from the bus stand. Tuk-tuk’s and cabs are available easily near the bus stand, as this is where you need to start your onward journey to the famous backwaters of Kerala. I chose a tuk-tuk ride.
Staying in a treehouse was my secret fantasy, all hail to “Warmth Lake Haven” I could find you. But my excitement dimmed for a moment because all my energy drained out in explaining to the tuk-tuk driver where I wanted to go. A classic example of a language barrier, but we settled it peacefully. This treehouse is part of a beautiful resort called Warmth Lake Haven. The entire resort has only one treehouse. Thank the stars I grabbed it right on time. Many people might not opt for this resort because public transport is not easily accessible to and fro. Once you turn off the main road, it’s a rough and uneven road.
Warmth lake is a beautiful property surrounded by nature; you will instantly fall in love with this place at first glance. I did nothing other than enjoying the sound of birds chirping, the beautiful Vembanad Lake right in front of my eyes, the backwaters, the paddy fields, the coconut palms.
I joined another group on a sunset boat ride organized by the resort in the evening. The astounding view of the setting sun while leaving its reflection on the backwater was a treat to watch. These little moments are ineffable & the craving for such wonders brings me back to nature most often.
Staying in a treehouse at night can be a little scary but thrilling. Eerie sounds (I think it was the sound of the strong wind or the anchored boat moving with the waves or was it something else? I don’t know) from outside kept me awake half of the night. At last, I switched on all the lights and dozed off. I did not have a sound sleep but woke up early as I had to move to my next destination for yet another thrilling experience.
Vagamon:
This stretch was the most exciting part of my vacation. Let me recap it for you. There have been many violent incidents reported related to CAA protests, due to which police administration was on high alert. One of the buses from Mangaluru to Kasaragod was attacked by miscreants and the driver suffered severe injuries. Certainly, a reason for concern for me, to continue my journey or end it here! I even thought of taking a flight back to Pune, but finally, I carried on to my next sojourn.
Nevertheless, we started our journey sharp at 9 AM. I was lucky to have Mr. Raman as the driver, who was a true gentleman. The distance from Alappuzha to Vagamon is approximately 100 kilometers that we covered in four hours. I was praying that we should not encounter any unpleasant situations on the way or any group of protesters. We did come across a group of people after an hour’s drive, but there was nothing to worry about as there was strict security throughout.
Let’s talk about the journey now. The route from Alappuzha to Vagamon can be one of the best road trips in Kerala. Perhaps because of the well-maintained highway. Besides the abundant greenery, I noticed some beautifully built houses on the way. These houses have a unique style of a long, steep roof, apparently built in this way to withstand the heavy monsoons.
A quick stopover on the way for lunch
A considerable part of the road to Vagamon is through a hilly forest, with no sign of human trace, no phone connectivity. To top it up, this stretch of the route was full of cracks and potholes. During such moments, I tell myself, “you are a fool to travel alone? What’s the thrill in it”?
Finally, I reached Vagamon after 4 hours of drive. I promise you can fall in love at first sight of this place. It’s a hidden gem of Kerala, still unexplored. The tea plantations and pine forest spread across this hill station add to the beauty of Vagamon. Often, I experience a sense of euphoria amid such natural beauty that oddly makes me emotional.
I booked a room in a semi-luxury resort called “Beyond Pines“. It’s a beautiful Villa property a few kilometers away from Vagamon town, located perfectly facing the magnificent Pine Valley.
I went for a stroll in the evening to the nearby village but did not go far as it was getting dark. There was just one narrow road through the village leading to the hotel. I felt that the resort was strangely quiet. Later I found out that I am the lucky one, there is no other guest in the entire resort. I was scared to death, literally felt like the end of the world. My mind was flooded with terrible thoughts. I had a booking for two days but I decided to move out from here the next day. Immediately booked Zostel (hostel) for my next day’s stay which was few kilometers away from Beyond pines. Thank the lord for the on-track internet service in this wilderness. After dinner, I locked all the knots and bolts of the door and window, tucked myself in the bed praying for dawn.
The next morning was the most beautiful ever. The gorgeous mountain covered with misty pine valley favored me to let slip the fearful night before. I have no complaints against the resort (except the food, they don’t have an in-house restaurant. The food they served me from outside was not that good). However, my safety is of the utmost importance when I travel alone (or with someone). So, I moved to a place where I feel safer. I chatted briefly with the hotel staff and they proudly explained how this place became popular in a short time and convinced me to visit again. With a promise to revisit (not alone for sure) I left for Zostel.
A day in Zostel:
“Zostel” is one of the best hostel chains in India, popular amongst backpackers. Spread across most of the states in India and Nepal. Zostel Vagamon is set beautifully on the meadows and tea plantations near Winter Vale road. Generally, hostels are always fun, as you meet fellow travelers from different parts of the country. I booked a bed in a 6-bed female dormitory room. Being the first to check-in that room, I selected a bed of my choice. I noticed a few other travelers planning for a small trek to view the sunset. I don’t miss such opportunities, so I gatecrashed. This was going to be exciting after the previous day’s disappointment. We decided to leave by 3 PM as it would take around 1 ½ hour to reach the spot. But before that, I wanted to feed myself some food cooked in anything but not coconut oil. Sadly, I was not lucky enough. Yeah…. I know, weird! I can’t bear the smell of coconut oil. Food is one thing that I had to struggle with on this trip. In Kerala, coconut oil, known as velichanna here is the most preferred cooking oil. It has a distinct flavor, and undoubtedly it does have many health benefits. But I could not befriend with coconut oil, maybe because of its strong flavor.
Watching the sunset from Moonmala:
We went off-roading through rocky terrain to reach the sunset point. I was sad to see the appalling condition of the road that leads us to Moonmala. Despite being home to a large rural population, many rural areas in India are still deprived of all-weather roads. Moonmala itself can be a popular tourist spot if the government pays more attention to uplifting its infrastructure and transport amenities. Once we reached the spot, we trekked for 15 minutes to get a better view of the sunset. There is something magical about the setting sun. A calmed feeling and a sense of nostalgia surround me every time I view the setting sun. I found a quiet corner, sat there for some time, and lost in thought along with the setting sun.
Saying goodbye to “God’s Own Country”:
The last day of any vacation is always emotional for me. This week-long adventure starting from the city of Kochi, the treehouse in Alappuzha, a scary night in the pine valley, a day in Zostel with strangers will always remain with me as priceless treasures.
I am still hungry for more of Kerala. I hope you liked my story. Please don’t forget to like and comment and help me with more offbeat places to explore on my next visit.